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Hard
Core Expedition style Safari from Dakhla to Gilf Kebir, Silica
Valley, Great sea of Sand, Ain Dalla, White Desert and Farafra
Oasis.
These Trips
Are very academic covering a wide range of Subject Matter
from, Geology, archeology, ecology, ancient and recent desert
history. Plus we will be discussing and viewing some of the
deserts amazing flora and fauna species.
It should
be noted that the masters And senior teachers of this domain
Are The Desert Fox Colonel A. Mistikawy, of Zarzora
Expeditions And Fliegel Jezerniczky Expeditions, It will take
me years to accumulate the wealth of knowledge of those
masters but I am working on it.
For these type of expeditions there is no
detailed or itinerary or time table. There is however a
detailed rout that we will follow camping when night fall and
progressing by sunrise the duration of the expedition is 12
days of the expedition is twelve days. Dakhla to Dakhla.
Planned Rout:
Leave Dakhla early morning traveling to Sugar
Hill & the Samir Lama Memorial A great photo op.
Onwards to Abu Balas (Pottery Hill)
When the early explorers visited the site, there were about
300 complete pots and amphorae at the depot, though most were
broken or had man-made holes in them supporting the theory
that this was the water cache referred to by the Dakhla
natives, which they destroyed when pursuing the "black
raiders" a few years before Rohlfs recorded the story in 1874.
The existence of this depot one third of the way to Kufra led
Almásy to speculate that there had to be another depot or well
two thirds of the way, most probably the unknown Zarzora
oasis. (In fact the Gilf
wadis are two thirds of the way, and
there was an an intermittent well at Wadi Abd el Melik,
proving Almásy's logic correct.) Unfortunately by now all the
complete pots have been taken or broken, and all that remains
at the site is a pile of broken shards at the foot of the
hill. The photos below were taken in 1998 & 2000, by now even
less remains. During his 1926 visit, Prince Kemal el Din found
some engravings half way up the rocky hill, which he published
together with the sites he found at Karkur Talh in Revue Scientifique Illustre. The cow suckling a calf, the gazelle
hunter and a large indistinct human figure all seem to belong
to the historic periods, having more in common with rock art
near the Nile valley than the Gilf-Uwainat area. On the other
hill a few hundred meters away, Giancarlo Negro noted a
curious engraving on a boulder at the foot of the hill,
possibly showing a falling meteorite (?).
A re-examination of
Abu Ballas by Rudolph Kuper and his team revealed a small cave
in the side of the hill, near the engravings. The clearing of
the cave is ongoing, no results are published yet. A further
startling discovery made by the HBI team was the age of some
of the pottery at Abu Ballas: thermo-luminescence dating
yielded a date of 1500 bc! This early date puts the whole
context of the cache in a different light. What was previously
considered to be the water depot of the Tibu raiders (who may
well have reused some of the post for this purpose), all of a
sudden it seems to be evidence for an extensive trade network
traversing the desert in Pharaonic times. Other new
discoveries in the region also point towards the existence of
the Abu Ballas Trail in us in ancient times
From Abu Ballas to the Prehistoric Lake
Bed where
there are a group of low sandstone hills that have built a
series of long trailing dunes on their southern side. Before
the dunes formed, the area to the south of the hills was a
shallow depression that contained a large shallow lake that is
clearly visible on the satellite photos as a dark patch
surrounded by the dunes. The mud of the lake bottom has eroded
into a series of Yardangs or mud lions. Their pink hue makes
an incredible contrast with the golden dunes and the cobalt
sky, making the spot one of the most picturesque in the Libyan
Desert. In Neolithic times the lakeshore offered an excellent
habitat, attested by the numerous implements and the remains
of several hut circles on higher ground around the lake.
Nearly all the hills have the remains of one or more circular
stone features on their flat tops, probably shelters for
prehistoric hunters who had an excellent vantage point to
watch game come to the lake to drink. The best preserved are
two large circles of fairly large blocks on the flank of a
hill overlooking the deepest part of the lake, where water
must have remained the longest. A notable discovery were a few microlith blades made of Libyan Desert
Glass, more than 300 kilometers from the source of the raw
material.
Arriving at
the southern end of Gilf Kebir The plateau becomes much broken
near it's southern end, and two large wadis, Wadi Firaq and
Wadi Wassa cross it's complete width. Near the middle of Wadi
Wassa distinctly pink hued sand is built into giant sand
ripples along an ancient lakebed. Near the mouth of Wadi
Firaq, a conspicuous row of hills, named "Eight Bells"
reach out to the plain, This was also the site of a old
world war 2 airfield. Near the airfield the ground is littered
with discarded petrol and food tins.
Further on we will pass
through Wadi Foraq then head north West of the Aqaba Pass, the
high cliffs continue for over 200 kilometres north-west. About
50 kilometres west of the pass, a small rocky promontory with
a spectacular scenery juts out of the cliffs. Apparently
ancient humans thought likewise, as the promontory with its
maze of rock islands and wadis is one of the most important
rock art sites in the region, Wadi Sura.
Wadi Sora is located in South-western
Egypt, along the western edge of the Gilf Kebir plateau. It's
not really a Wadi, just a sheltered inlet among a promontory
and a couple of detached outliers of the main plateau. The
main painted caves were discovered by Almásy in October 1933
during the Frobenius expedition. They contain the little
‘swimmer’ like figures which inspired the fictious cave of
swimmers in the movie "The English Patient". In the vicinity
of Wadi Sora there are numerous other rock art sites,
including the "giraffe rock" discovered by P.A. Clayton in
1931, and few lesser sites discovered by Almásy and Rhotert in
1933 (Published in Rhotert's Libysche felsbilder,
1952). There are several quite spectacular sites scattered in
the nearby bays and wadis that have not been seen by the early
explorers. These have been discovered over the past decade by
Giancarlo Negro, Yves Gauthier, Werner Lenz, Fliegel Jezerniczky Expeditions,
Colonel Ahmad Mistikawy and others.
Back tracking to aquaba
pass, going up to the Gilf plateau where we will camp and
spend many hours exploring. The
north-western half of the Gilf dips northwards. The plateau
top is perfectly flat, but the whole plateau is much dissected
by major wadis and their tributaries, which all drain to the
north. These wadis were first seen from the air during the
1932 Almásy - Clayton expedition, and Almásy made a strong
case for their identification with the mythical lost oasis of
Zarzura. Aside the scarps, the general flatness of the Libyan
desert is only interrupted by a series of plateaus and massifs
near the centre of the Libyan Desert, around the convergence
of the Egyptian-Sudanese-Libyan Borders. The Gilf Kebir
plateau rises about 300 meters above the general plain, and
lies entirely in Egypt. It roughly equals Switzerland in size,
and is similar in structure to the other sandstone plateaus of
the central Sahara. It's South-eastern part is well
defined on all sides, with sheer cliffs and deep, narrow
wadis. The North-east part, separated from the other
half by a broad valley called the "Gap" is more broken, and
supports three large wadis with live vegetation.
Descend the Gilf plateau
heading to Wadi Hamra
Wadi Hamra, the easternmost valley, opens to the Gap about 60
kilometers to the north of Aqaba. Near its head it supports a
healthy cluster of acacias, making it the greenest of the
wadis. It received it's name on account of the red sand
filling it's bed near the vegetation zone. Near it's centre
section and close to it's head, three rock art sites, with
engravings that are possibly the oldest in the region. Wadi
Hamra is a very dry and desolate place now, but as late as 70
years ago or so, this was a valley in which camel herders
could graze their camels in the spring, and a strategic place
where camel trains could find water. Now, there is a line of
Acacia trees which mark the line of an underground river, but
no sign at all of any surface water. What there is to see here
are rock engravings made by nomadic pastoralists some 5,500
years ago. The engravings are of cows (lots of them),
giraffes, ostrich, antelope and even some elephants.
From Wadi Hamra to the
dune field east of gilf heading to bangolds circle:

In a small basin in the hills we
came the next day (27th October, 1930) upon
a circle 27 feet (8.5 meters) in diameter of thin slabs
of sandstone, 18 to 24 inches high. Half were lying prone, but
the rest were still vertical in the sand. There was no doorway
or other sign of orientation, and though we searched within
and without the circle, no implements could be found. I
understand that other similar circles have been found in the
neighborhood of the Gilf Kebir."

Major R.A.Bagnold, Journeys in the Libyan Desert 1929 and
1930,
The Geographical Journal, Vol. LXXVIII No. 1. (July 1931)]

Bagnold and his party made their
discovery purely by chance, as the low structure is only
visible from a few hundred meters. Bagnold did mark the circle
on his map accompanying the Geographical Journal article. This
circle is very different - it's much too large to have been
any such building, it is more reminiscent on a small scale of
the familiar megalithic stone rings of Europe. It is built in
the centre of a fairly large irregular shaped patch of flat
sand, about one kilometer across, surrounded by low sandstone
hills on three sides, and a chain of low barchans to the west.
We could confirm Bagnold's observation, that no stone
implements were to be found in the vicinity. A kilometre away,
a broken aterian biface and some crude flake tools were noted,
but no concentration of artifacts that would indicate any
larger permanent settlement.
Then on to the silica valleys
for camp and several hours to explore:Libyan
Desert Glass (LDG) is the purest form natural silica glass to
be found on earth. It is usually a light green in colour and
can be found in a small oval area about 120km long by 50km
wide which is (despite the name) on the Egyptian side of the
border with Libya. It is found laying on the sand in amongst
burnt igneous rocks on the floor of the corridors between the
dunes. The size of chunks of LDG are usually small enough to
fit easily in the palm of the hand, but have been found in
large lumps weighing in at over 25 kgs. This area is
also rich in tools and artifacts spanning all of mankind's
prehistory. It needs a good eye to pick out the tools shaped
by man from the litter of rock fragments laying around, many
examples of stone knives, axes, spear points, and other tools
- some knapped from LDG.
From silica glass
to the depths of
The Great Sand Sea
of the eastern Sahara is aptly named; an unbroken mass of
dunes the size of New Mexico which smothers the barren
frontiers of Libya and Egypt and is home to not
one living soul. Parallel dune ridges run north-south for
hundreds of miles, and anyone journeying here has to be
exceptionally well prepared, as there's not a single well or
water source in 150,000 square miles--extreme even by Saharan
standards

The great sea will take
at least 2 nights and 3 days to cross once we arrive at pillar
rock We will the Treacherous terrain of the great sea will be behind
us. From pillar rock to the
old explorers cars and on to Ain Della through to the
most scenic part of the white desert For camp and exploring.
From the white
desert to Farafra oasis for a swim in natural spring and tour
of oasis one night in hotel then on to Dakhla oasis
end of trip.
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